My Travelogue of Dracula's Homeland – Romania

 

Dr. Ruwan M Jayatunge 

When I think about Dracula movies, my thoughts inevitably turn to Romania and Transylvania. I have seen several adaptations, with memorable performances including Bela Lugosi's iconic 1931 portrayal, Christopher Lee's various interpretations, Frank Langella's seductive 1979 version, and Francis Ford Coppola's 1992 film. Each of these movies evokes a sense of fear. I vividly recall watching Christopher Lee's “Dracula Has Risen from the Grave” on a solitary night in London. I was in my twenties and still captivated by the allure of horror. The film began at 10:30 p.m., and as I sat alone, I felt chills run down my spine. By the time the credits rolled at midnight, my heart raced, and I found solace in keeping a copy of the Buddhist Dhammapada under my pillow as I went to bed. 

In my opinion, Christopher Lee stands out as the classic portrayal of Dracula, with a tall physique and a sinister outlook. I'm most certain that I have seen all of Christopher Lee's Dracula movies. When I compare Christopher Lee with Claes Bang, the Danish actor from the 2020 Netflix series "Dracula," my initial impression is that Bang embodies a character reminiscent of James Bond, particularly akin to Pierce Brosnan. I perceive him as Bond embodying the essence of Dracula. However, the 2020 Netflix adaptation presents Dracula's castle as a far more menacing and foreboding setting, enhancing the overall atmosphere of dread in the series.

In 1990, shortly after the assassination of Nicolae Ceaușescu, Romanian communist politician and dictator, I had the opportunity to visit Romania, the land of Dracula. Upon arriving in Bucharest, the atmosphere was filled with chaos, visible poverty, and social disorder. A militia member warned us that people were so desperate they would loot bread, indicating it was unsafe to walk the streets with even a loaf. I initially believed it was an overstatement to keep us on the train. However, when our train stopped, vendors quickly surrounded us, eager to sell food and antiques in exchange for money. I managed to acquire a beautiful wooden vase by trading a pack of Marlboro cigarettes, which I later gifted to my ENT Professor- Gardega, who had performed my tonsil surgery.

As our train departed from Bucharest and journeyed deeper into the countryside, I was struck by the breathtaking beauty of rural Romania, which was tinged with an unsettling aura reminiscent of Jonathan Harker's diary. The landscape exuded an air of ancient superstition and mystery. During the ride, I met a Romanian girl named Anka, who was on her way to Bulgaria. She was a beauty with black hair and bright eyes. She could speak a little English and Russian. Somehow, we tried to understand each other. When I asked about Dracula's castle, she told me that we were just 180 kilometres from Dracula's castle, and I found myself captivated by her stories.

Dracula, often associated with the infamous vampire legend, was inspired by Vlad III of Wallachia, a 15th-century Romanian prince known for his fierce resistance against the Ottoman Empire. Vlad, notorious for his brutal methods of execution, particularly impalement, earned a reputation for extreme cruelty that would later influence Bram Stoker's fictional portrayal of Dracula. However, it is important to note that Vlad the Impaler was not an embodiment of an evil heretic; throughout his life, he was regarded as a defender of Christendom. The decision by Stoker to depict him as a malevolent figure in opposition to Christian values raises questions about the motivations behind this characterization. 

The portrayal of Dracula as an anti-Christ figure, often referred to as the "Prince of Darkness," is a misrepresentation of his historical role. In reality, Vlad the Impaler, the figure behind the Dracula legend, was a staunch defender of the Christian faith, actively resisting Turkish forces and thwarting the spread of Islam in Romania and Bulgaria. Despite his efforts to protect Christianity, Vlad's legacy has been tarnished, leading to his unjust reputation as an antichrist. 

Anka shared intriguing tales about vampires and werewolves, revealing that in some Romanian villages, residents still hang crucifixes and garlic as a means of warding off evil. I inquired with Anka about the origins of the belief that vampires are repelled by garlic. One possible explanation is that garlic emits a potent odour that is intolerable to these mythical creatures.

Anka described the beauty of the Carpathian Mountains. The Carpathian Mountains are special for their vast, relatively untouched wilderness. Near the border between Romania and Bulgaria, I saw the Danube River. It is the only major river in Europe that flows from west to east, traversing or bordering 10 countries. Originating in the Black Forest of Germany, it meanders through ten countries, including Austria, Hungary, and Romania, before finally emptying into the Black Sea.

Upon entering Dracula's land, I was reminded of Jonathan Harker's vivid descriptions in his diary. The foreboding atmosphere enveloped me as I observed the eerie vegetation, imposing mountains, and the sombre expressions of the local peasants in this enigmatic territory. 

Bram Stoker's "Dracula" vividly portrays Jonathan Harker's journey into the vampire's castle, where he encounters terrifying events and frantically escapes from the castle. However, Dracula's curse follows him to England. Finally, Harker gathers his companions and defeats Dracula by driving a stake through his heart and decapitating him. In my own narrative, titled "The Death of Jonathan Harker," which was published in 2014, I explore a continuation of Harker's story. 

Seven years later, as Harker returns to Dracula's domain with Mina, Dr. Seward, and their young son, Quincy. This visit reveals lingering fears as they discover remnants of the past, including ancient gold coins and Turkish swords. A critical moment occurs when Dr. Seward inadvertently cuts his finger when he tries to check the sharpness of a Turkish sword, allowing a drop of blood to fall onto the dust-laden floor, inadvertently resurrecting Dracula from his ashes. Although they manage to escape the castle, their lives are soon plagued by a series of horrors; after seven months of their visit to Carpathian, Dr. Seward is brutally murdered by an unidentified killer, Jonathan is haunted by terrifying visions, and Mina succumbs to illness, calling for the count before her death. Ultimately, Harker is isolated and tormented by the echoes of Dracula's curse. Out of fear, Harker fills his room with crucifixes and garlic, yet he hears frightful sounds, the voices of Dracula's brides. Finally, he descends into madness and dies in a hospital. The young doctor who treated Harker thinks that his patient suffered from a neurotic attack and died. 

For me, Romania remains a Southeastern European country known for its rich history and diverse natural beauty. I saw the Roma people, Romania's largest ethnic minority. They are called "Gypsies" (nowadays, this word is considered ethnic slang). They lived in poverty. The Roma people migrated to Eastern Europe from Northern India. Some say they served as slaves or labourers in the Roman Army. The film Borat accurately portrays the living conditions of Roma people, highlighting issues such as poverty, inadequate education, and the impact of racial discrimination. In the later years, I saw many Romanian Roma people in Canada.

Once at Fairview Mall in North York, Canada, I had an unexpected encounter with two young Roma boys, likely around 11 or 12 years old. While ascending the escalator, I noticed one of the boys holding a wooden tray against his chest. The escalator was crowded and moving slowly.  I suddenly felt pressure against my back, followed by the sensation of someone trying to reach for my wallet in my back pocket. It became apparent that the boys were attempting to pickpocket me, using the tray to hide their actions from the CCTV cameras. After securing my wallet, I watched as they feigned innocence while entering a nearby clothing store, revealing that they were likely being exploited by some Roma adults for theft. Interestingly, my brother later shared a similar experience he had while on vacation in Italy.

Slovaks represent a notable minority in Romania, belonging to the West Slavic ethnic group. Jonathan Harker described the Slovaks he saw as "more barbarian than the rest" due to the prevalent Victorian-era British imperialist biases and ethnocentric views of his time. During World War 2, some Slovaks supported the German Wehrmacht.

In Romania, ethnic Romanians constitute around 89.3% of the total population. During my time in the United States and Canada, I encountered several Romanians who expressed surprise that I had visited Romania during its socialist period. One notable interaction was with a Romanian woman who worked as a building manageress in Toronto; we frequently discussed my experiences in Romania, which provided a unique perspective on the country's history.

Sometimes I make my tailor-made Romanian jokes. Last year, during a routine visit to Life Labs in Ajax, Ontario, I encountered a friendly nurse with an Irish accent while having my blood drawn. In a casual conversation, I inquired whether they were hiring at the blood bank, mentioning that I had a friend with expertise in hematology who was seeking employment specifically in a blood bank. The nurse recommended that my friend check the Life Labs website for potential job openings.  However, I explained that my friend, who came from Transylvania, is not particularly tech-savvy and is an old-school guy. I further mentioned that he has specific working conditions that require him to work only from 6 PM to 6 AM and no daytime shifts. Moreover, he cannot stand the smell of garlic.  After listening to my story, the nurse promptly responded with a smile. “Ho no, your friend is not permitted to enter the life labs”.

In recent years, Romania has experienced a notable increase in the number of Sri Lankan workers, a stark contrast to the minimal presence during the 1990s. When I applied for my Romanian visa at the embassy in Moscow, I was pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome I received. The visa officer, upon seeing my Sri Lankan passport, recognized it and greeted me with a smile, referencing "Mrs. Barandanayeke’s country" before stamping my passport. This moment marked the only occasion on which my Sri Lankan passport was met with such a positive acknowledgment.